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Czechs are the leading beer drinkers in the world with per-capita consumption in excess of 160 litres yearly.

 
 
In the Czech Republic, babies often utter the word 'pivo' (Czech for 'beer') long before 'mama' ever passes their lips.

Beer making (and guzzling) is an art which is taken very seriously in Czechia, and has a history and tradition as old as the rivers.

The list of beers and brewing houses in the Czech Republic
is lengthy to say the least. The only thing that one has in common with the next is that they're all thick, hearty, unbelievably fresh and downright delicious.

Even if you don't consider yourself a beer drinker, give your pallet a chance to taste some of the finest the world has to offer.

For a real Czech experience and a unique brew – or liquid bread as some call it – that's changed very little since the first chalice was poured some six centuries ago, don't leave Prague without visiting one of the city's most fabled institutions, U Fleku. Located on Kremencova 11 in Prague 1, U Fleku is the smallest and oldest brewery in town.

The beer masters here use the same ancient techniques that their predecessors incorporated to turn out a rich dark nectar that has 'one-more-round' written all over it.

Order up a plate of traditional Czech fare during your visit too – it can only add to the sensory overload of blaring trumpets, wild laughter, cabaret dancers and an endless flow of CZK50 (CONVERSION £TBC) half litres. Oh, and don't forget your camera, otherwise you may not remember the raucous night you had, or all that lovely beer you drank.

If you've got time and want to explore Bohemian brew to its fullest, hop on an eastward train 80km from Prague's main station to Plzen, a town that's become synonymous with beer throughout the world.

Most Czechs will tell you the town's namesake, Pilsner Urquell, is the planet's undisputed champion beer. Whatever the case, the word 'Pilsner' has come to signify that light, golden-amber effervescence that hardcore lager enthusiasts prefer.


Plzen itself isn't much of an attraction, but the brewery on U Prazdroje 7 is a must for anyone remotely interested in the history of beer. The surrounding countryside is riddled with Gothic castles, spectacular ruins and charming summer chateaux, making a day excursion to Plzen well worth the trip. Guided tours run daily and cost CZK170.

For another peek at an internationally renowned brewing institution, take the train 130km south-west from Plzen to Ceskè Budejovice.

This pleasant city is the flagship locale of what's been for centuries the finest hops-producing region in Central Europe. The mild, full-bodied taste of Budejovicke beers is most characterised by the famous Budweiser label, which puts out a succulent light as well as devilishly sweet and satisfying darker version.

Whatever you do, don't mistake the name Budweiser for the American mass-produced beverage of the same name – the source of an embittered and endless court battle and a touchy subject in Southern Bohemia.

Tours of the Budweiser brewery on U Medviku run daily and cost CZK 70-100. Buses to Cesky Krumlov, one of the most beautifully preserved medieval renaissance towns in Europe, also run every 20 minutes from the main bus station in Budejovice.

— Scott Cohen 15.12.00

Scott Cohen is Special Projects Editor for the Prague Business Journal and also writes for Lonely Planet's Scoop travel news service.

 

 

 
   
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