Understated isn't the word for Playa del Carmen. An hour south of Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula, this adorable little resort consists of not much more than a single seaside street, Avenida Quinta, busting with shops, restaurants and bars.

Ibiza or Agia Napa it ain't – and for some of us, that's nothing to moan about. When you're sitting at one of the three bars on Playa del Carmen's beach – under the stars with the moon lighting up the sea, the sound of surf and salsa in the background – pumped-up clubs like Ibiza's Manumission, seem a very, very long way away.

Playa del Carmen's main beach is decent, but if real paradise is your ticket take a 20-minute stroll north to Coco Beach. It's quiet, like something off a Bounty ad and there's a great bar there where perhaps the steamy romance Mexico specialises in could get off the ground. And if you're prepared to travel, there's a staggering amount to see in the area.

No use pulling punches on the weather: it's friggin' hot, with 30°C common on a cool day, up to 40°C when it's warm. Leave anything with sleeves or legs at home. At night, you can get away without air con, so long as your room comes with a fan. Crucially, girls, the humidity can play havoc with the hairdo so come equipped with the best anti-frizz prods you can find.

The ultra-packed high season runs July through August, and a week either side of Easter, when the gaff's crawling with both foreign tourists and Mexicans on their hols. Hotels can book out months in advance, so if arrive without a booking ask around – you won't get a great deal on the beach, but a street or two back you'll get something decent.

Sadly, the shopping ain't all that. If, for some inexplicable reason, you want sombreros, colourful Mexican stuff and Mayan crafts, there's a plentiful supply. But be warned, they aren't cheap. Pricewise, sellers can be bargained down easily – so long as they know you're not American. Amusingly, there's a tier system: American price, other tourists' price and Mexican price.

Everything's within easy reach in this little paradise, so if schlepping miles isn't your cup of sangria, get outta Cancun quicksmart and make Playa del Carman your understated little paradise.

— Finula Cairns 26.09.00

For an online guide to Playa del Carman, click here.
For details of the local weather, click here.
For a map of Mexico, click here.
For Manumission's website, click here.